Jane Birkin’s Original Birkin comes to auction

There is something to look forward to for all the die-hard Birkin fans. Jane Birkin’s original Hermes Birkin, one of the most iconic fashion items ever created, is coming up to auction at Sotheby’s in Paris this July. The legendary handbag, which inspired the creation of what would become the world’s most coveted and elusive fashion accessory, will lead Sotheby’s Fashion Icons sale on July 10, 2025. “The prototype that started it all carries a soul and legacy that no other handbag can claim, that’s in no small part why we are thrilled to be able to exhibit it at Sotheby’s New York before it is sold in Paris on 10 July, just as the fashion world gathers in the capital for Haute Couture Week,” says Morgane Halimi, Sotheby’s Global Head of Handbags and Fashion.

Jane Birkin’s Original Birkin Bag (on the plinth) next to the now standardised Birkin design different from the prototype (The Original Birkin) in seven key details. Pics courtesy of Sotheby’s.

According to Halimi, there is no doubt that the Original Birkin bag (estimate on request) is a true one-of-a-kind — a singular piece of fashion history that has grown into a pop culture phenomenon that signals luxury in the most refined way possible. “It is incredible to think that a bag initially designed by Hermès as a practical accessory for Jane Birkin, has become the most desirable bag in history and will most likely continue to be so for many years to come,” he says.

The Original Birkin (estimate on request) will be sold as part of Sotheby’s very first Fashion Icons sale staged in Paris, preceded by an exhibition at Sotheby’s Galleries on rue du Faubourg St Honoré from July 3 – 9, 2025. Bidding on all items from the Fashion Icons sale, including The Original Birkin, opens online at sothebys.com from June 26, 2025, to the closing of the sale July 10, 2025. This online only sale is a curated selection exploring fashion trends from the 1950s to the 2010s featuring iconic fashion items from celebrated couture shows by designers such as Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior, John Galliano, Thierry Mugler and Azzedine Alaïa.

The Original Birkin, commissioned in 1984 exclusively for and in collaboration with British actress and singer Jane Birkin by then Hermès CEO Jean-Louis Dumas, was crafted forty years ago. This all-black leather prototype — now known as The Original Birkin — laid the foundation for what would become the most iconic and sought-after handbag in the world. In many ways a work of art, the Original Birkin is unique not only because of its provenance, but also by differing significantly to the way the Birkins have been made ever since. Borrowing elements from Hermès’ existing sac Haut A Courroies, the finished bag was eventually delivered to Jane Birkin in 1985. The Original Birkin was truly a prototype with seven key features that, taken together, were never replicated on any other Birkin bag made since. The commercialised version of the Birkin, bear none of those features. The Original Birkin was exhibited publicly for the first time in continental Europe at Sotheby’s Paris Galleries last autumn, and at Sotheby’s Maison in Hong Kong earlier this year – driving thousands to see the bag, surpassing all expectations. The overwhelming response underscored what has become increasingly clear: now entering its fifth decade, the Birkin phenomenon is proving stronger than ever.

Distinguished by seven unique design elements that set it apart from every Birkin that followed, this historic handmade prototype will be on public display at Sotheby’s New York galleries from June 6 – 12, offering a rare opportunity to witness the origin of a legend before it goes under the hammer.

 “There are rare moments in the world of fashion when an object transcends trends and becomes a legend. Jane Birkin’s Original Birkin bag is such a moment. A true unicorn in the world of fashion and accessories, this iconic handbag stands shoulder to shoulder with other exceptional items with similarly dazzling provenance – such as Princess Diana’s symbolic Black Sheep Sweater and Freddie Mercury’s Crown and Cloak, both of which set outstanding benchmarks for items of their kind. Like them, the Original Birkin holds the potential to redefine records, but above all, our priority is ensuring it finds a new home worthy of its iconic status and legendary history,” says Halimi.

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